For over a decade, Olivier Rousteing has been the visionary at the helm of Balmain, steering the iconic French fashion house with a blend of respect for its rich heritage and a bold, forward-thinking approach. Under his guidance, the brand has consistently evolved, maintaining the elegance and sophistication that Pierre Balmain established while infusing it with contemporary flair. With the launch of Balmain Beauty and the introduction of the Les Éternels de Balmain luxury fragrance collection, Rousteing has expanded the house’s influence into the world of scent, capturing the essence of Balmain’s past while crafting a future legacy. This new collection, which features eight genderless “maximalist” scents, represents a seamless fusion of history and innovation.
The Philosophy of Maximalism
Rousteing’s approach to fragrance is rooted in a philosophy of maximalism. He believes that a scent should be more than just a fleeting presence; it should be a statement that is unique, unforgettable, and audacious. This belief is evident in the carefully curated collection, where each fragrance is designed to leave a lasting impression. Rousteing emphasizes that a maximalist scent is one that not only defines who you are but also etches itself into the memory of those around you. The Les Éternels de Balmain collection is a reflection of this ethos, offering scents that are rich, complex, and enduring.
A Personal Journey of Creation
The journey to create these fragrances began in 2020, during a pivotal moment in Rousteing’s life. Following a severe burn accident, he found himself questioning the concept of beauty and delving deep into his own emotions. This introspective period led him to approach the art of fragrance with the same precision and dedication that he applies to couture. Rousteing even enrolled in Givaudan’s Perfumery School in Paris to immerse himself in the craft, ensuring that every scent he created was born out of a deep understanding of the process.
Honoring Balmain’s Fragrance Heritage
The creation of Balmain’s new fragrance line is not just about innovation; it is also about honoring the house’s storied past. Rousteing meticulously revisited the archives, studying the brand’s first-ever fragrance, Elysées 64-83, which debuted in 1946. This scent, a collaboration between Pierre Balmain and the pioneering female perfumer Germaine Cellier, marked the beginning of Balmain’s fragrance legacy. Rousteing’s respect for this history is evident in his decision to reinterpret four of the house’s landmark scents—Vert Vert, Ébène, Carbone, and Ivoire—for the modern era.
Reinterpreting Classic Scents
Each of these reimagined fragrances builds on its original composition while incorporating contemporary elements that enhance their depth and complexity. For instance, the new Vert Vert shifts from its original galbanum to a fresh vert de mandarine composition, enriched with jasmine, basil, and woody blackcurrant. Similarly, Ébène has been deepened with ebony wood, tobacco, and vanilla, creating a richer, more resonant scent. These updates are not mere tweaks; they are thoughtful evolutions that respect the original creations while making them relevant for today’s audience.
Introducing New Fragrance Creations
While honoring the past, Rousteing also introduced entirely new scents that reflect his personal journey and vision for the future of Balmain. The collection includes Sel D’Ambre, inspired by the mystique of desert nights with its blend of amber and salty ambergris, and Rouge, a floral-fruity tribute to the glamour of Hollywood. Perhaps the most personal of these new creations is Bronze, a woody chypre that Rousteing designed as a reflection of his healing process after his burn accident. This scent, with its combination of cedarwoods, black pepper, and tobacco, is a testament to resilience and renewal.
Designing with a Nod to the Past
The design of the fragrance bottles themselves is another nod to Balmain’s heritage. Drawing inspiration from the house’s first perfume bottle from 1946, the new designs feature a black-and-gold color palette, geometric shapes, and a label that speaks to both tradition and modernity. Rousteing’s attention to detail ensures that the aesthetic of the bottles is as luxurious and timeless as the scents they contain.
An Enduring Legacy
In creating the Les Éternels de Balmain collection, Olivier Rousteing has once again demonstrated his ability to honor the past while crafting a future that is bold, luxurious, and enduring. These fragrances are not just products; they are a continuation of the Balmain legacy, reinterpreted for a new generation. As Rousteing himself puts it, these are not scents designed to be trendy for a season or two—they are fragrances that will stand the test of time, embodying the enduring spirit of Balmain.